The Kyoto insider's guide
Sharing months of food research, some secrets, and why I've come back wanting to be a better person.
Hello lovely people, and welcome to SEASON the KYOTO, JAPAN Edition! This newsletter is culmination of many months of research before our trip (and more on the ground!) so here you’ll find my curated list of some of our:
favourite food finds,
places to stay (there are really beautiful boutique ones)
and some thoughts on Kyoto.
So that you don’t miss out on anything, TOKYO is coming next week!
Like so many others, I have fallen in love with Japan. The food, the trains (and train station food!), cleanliness, dedication to tradition, attention to detail, vending machines, SNOW…I could go on!
But before I get into the nitty gritty, I just want to focus for a moment on a few things that struck me daily and made me come back wanting to be a better person- a more efficient, organised, polite, clean, respectful, mindful and, dare I say, even quieter person (at least in public!).
For example, Tokyo: I’m astounded that for a city of approximately 14 million people, there is barely any road traffic congestion, the trains aren’t packed to the rafters (and always on time), and virtually everywhere is squeaky clean, including all public toilets (don’t even get me started on the wonder of Japanese toilets, from the warm seats to the music and flushing sounds that spontaneously play to allow for some dignity in the whole process!). While travelling on trains and riding a bike, I observed many a washing line where even the clothes are hung expertly, efficiently. There is a practicality, organisation and respect for rules that I admire.
Then there is the dedication to one’s craft, and perfecting the details of this craft whether it’s in the creation of knives, ceramics or noodles. One will experience this commitment everywhere, from a store selling mochi to stationery to ramen. Even at a humble little cafe serving onigiri (Japanese rice balls), it may turn out that the family also grow the rice to make them. And yet this attention to detail co-exists harmoniously with wabi sabi, a Japanese philosophy that invites us to find beauty in imperfection and impermanence. There are so many layers which I long to explore further.
And of course omotenashi, the Japanese term for their distinct culture of hospitality, which extends far beyond the act of taking care of people. Omotenashi has a spiritual element, and encompasses a belief system where looking after people is done so with mindfulness and purity of intention, without expectation of anything in return. We experienced this warmth, service and sincerity on so many occasions, especially in the context of food and restaurants.
Of the cities we visited (Tokyo, Kyoto and Osaka), Kyoto had the greatest impact on me. I felt so happy and at ease walking out of the hotel and onto the street for the first time. Kyoto seems to seamlessly weave history with contemporary culture, where historical ryokans and machiya (the wooden townhouses) stand stoically amongst the 7-Elevens and chain stores. There are hidden gems to discover around every corner. Indeed, some of my best food finds and most memorable food experiences were in Kyoto.
There is something about Kyoto that feels dream-like. Perhaps it’s the distant backdrop of the mountains or the river running through the city; the gentle sway of the noren (Japanese fabric dividers often hung in doorways and windows) stirring curiosity ( “what’s inside?”); the slower rhythm of life, compared to Tokyo and Osaka. When I was there I had a feeling of balance, “all is well.”
Now, I could simply attribute this to escaping my Byron bubble, and that incomparable feeling of being somewhere totally new (and away from the drudgery, but never the laundry to be honest, lol). And no doubt, simply travelling had a part to play. But I have since learned by reading the excellent “Noma in Kyoto” magazine, that the city of Kyoto was designed and built in perfect alignment to the compass points, way back in 794. So that feeling of “balance” is not just cosmic, it’s built in. It is also blessed with precious, quality groundwater 35 metres below that local artisans credit for the quality of their products like sake and tofu.
Speaking of which, let’s talk about the food and some need-to-knows.
Things to know before travelling to Japan:
Get an e-sim: It’s well worth installing an e-sim such as “Ubigi” for data on the go, which is extremely helpful for Google maps and Google translate, which I used daily. This type of e-sim means that you keep your own sim card in your phone, but the e-sim enables your phone to tap into the phone network of that country. Note that it must be installed before you go, and it’s data only (no standard calls or standard texts), so it’s for whatsapp, google, social media etc. Google maps is extremely helpful for navigating trains, providing specifics down to which platform to go on.
Card and cash are King: Some restaurants will only take card, while many markets and even train stations are cash only, so make sure that you have both!
Get a good translation app: Many of the best places have Japanese only websites, menus and signage, so have Google translate or another translation app handy, as the non-English places are some of the best gems.
Restaurants and bookings: If there is somewhere you really want to eat or visit, book in advance, avoid wearing perfumes (this is a common request), and arrive early or on time!
WHERE TO EAT IN KYOTO:
OK, let the games begin. Here is a list of some of my favourite finds and insider picks that took me months to research and find, while others I discovered on the ground :)
Nishiki Market - Also known as the “kitchen of Kyoto”, this is the perfect place to sample a multitude of traditional Japanese foods from sake and tea, to mochi and seafood. It opens at 9am so we did it for breakfast. The fried omelette at the beginning of the market was delicious.
Top tip: Want an amazing Japanese kitchen knife? Aritsugu at Nishiki Market is one of the places to get it. It is renowned and they have been crafting exceptional chef’s knives since 1560.
Wajoryomen Sugari - No insta, no website and no bookings. This hidden 12 seater ramen restaurant behind a tiny wooden door was a delicious surprise- the broth here is rich, gravy-like and packed with umami. It’s popular, but the courtyard is a nice place to wait. Address: 471-1 Kannondocho, Nakagyo Ward, Kyoto, 604-8222, Japan
Musoshin Ramen - Located in the historic area of Gion, this tiny (10 seater?) and casual ramen restaurant warmed our souls with its delicious chicken and pork based ramen.
Honke Owariya - This is a very special restaurant to try soba as it was the first to serve soba in Kyoto, back in in 1702, and its in the original building. The buckwheat for the noodles is sourced from Hokkaido and cooked with precious groundwater. Prior to that it was a confectionery shop since 1495.
Weekenders Coffee - This tiny coffee shop in a parking lot serves up incredible coffee (one of the smoothest and most enjoyable l've ever had), and the team are dedicated to preserving and progressing Kyoto's coffee culture.
Top tip: In the spirit of the traditional tea ceremony, they perform a Coffee Ceremony on the weekend at their roastery by appointment - this is something I would love to try next time.
Wife & Husband - Find me a more gorgeous coffee and antique shop, I’ll wait.
Hitsuji Donuts - No insta and no website, and yet this is one very popular shop that makes delicious donuts, in such high demand that there is a ticketing system. What I love is that they're not overly sweet or glazed. Rather, for me, their beauty lies in their warmth, freshness and texture. (To find it: put “Hitsuji Donuts” in google maps)
Sushi Suzuka - Intimate restaurant with seating at the counter, regarded for their sushi and omotenashi.
Kura Conveyor Belt Sushi - Yes, it’s sushi chain restaurant, but the novelty of ordering plates on a screen and having them speedily arrive on a conveyor belt never gets old! It’s a casual, easy, fun, fast and very family friendly experience! Kura offers the privacy of booths. Our kids (and we) really enjoyed it.
THE PHILOSOPHER’S PATH - This one of the most special places to visit in Kyoto. It’s a 2km walk along a canal dotted with cherry blossoms ( imagine them in bloom?!) as well as shrines, temples, artisan shops and restaurants. Some of the most unique and memorable food experiences can be found along and tucked away behind this path.
Monk - At this beautiful and very hard to get into intimate restaurant, chef Yoshihiro Imai and his team gather hyper-seasonal local ingredients and prepare them with the utmost care and respect, mainly over fire. The main event is the pizza. They made the kids a margarita and Archie said “this is the best pizza you can get, and this is the best version of it!”
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